Nearby, is another Paris sight for kids to ponder. At the junction of Quai Conti and the Pont-Neuf, the scientist Pierre Curie, Marie's husband, was crushed to death by a horse-drawn carriage in 1906. Pay attention, Parisian drivers remain notorious!

It's worth noting that the Pont-Neuf is being spruced up. The oldest bridge in Paris glows in the sunlight; it is heart-stopping beautiful. Even without the cleanup, this bridge has always inspired artists: both Renoir and Monet painted it in 1867 and, in 1985, for a different impression, the sculptor Christo wrapped it in white cloth.

neigh_4.jpgNumbers of arty-looking young persons in the vicinity of Quai Malaquais are heading to class at the beautiful Ecole des Beaux-Arts, the main school of fine arts in France. (Many leading American architects, Bernard Maybeck among them, have studied here as well.) Go into the courtyard; the sculptures there are frequently "enhanced" by the students. You might also discover the next Matisse; check out the student shows.

The antique shops along Quai Voltaire are window-shopping heaven. Judge from the priceless-looking displays whether you dare enter. But, Aux Soldats d'Antan, on Quai de la Tournelle, has been here forever and boasts a collection of toy soldiers that both children and parents can appreciate. A tiny metal figure is a beautiful enduring memento.

seine_ronis.jpgTired of spending and want a taste of Paris-for-free? Perhaps the best deal in town is catching a special Paris-themed show Neighborhoods - Steps from The Seine 2 in seine2.html (Edith Piaf, Willy Ronis, the Metro, etc.) at L'Hotel De Ville, steps from the river on Rue de Rivoli. Every show I've seen here has made my all-time-favorites list. They're imaginatively mounted and usually feature a video presentation. The whole family will enjoy City Hall's free gift to the overtaxed tourist.

The Seine has always been a busy trade route. Barges still ply the water daily. Private commercial boats are gone, but gargantuan sightseeing boats, Bateaux-Mouches and the smaller Vedettes, have replaced them. They look hideously touristy, but most Parisians have been aboard. Here is a mesmerizing way to rest your feet and change your perspective; Paris from the river is unforgettable. It was on a Bateau-Mouche dinner cruise that Cary finally declared his feelings for Audrey. Need we say more?

Wonderful food and spectacular views? The loftiest is the 400-year-old Tour D'Argent, where panoramic splendor comes with astronomically priced, but very delicious numbered pressed ducks. Less costly sweeping views with lively tastes are served up at the stylish Arab Institute's top floor restaurant, Ziryab. On the same floor, but without the views, is the Moucharabieh cafeteria with couscous from Ziryab's kitchen at a fraction of the price. (Note: The Samaritaine Department Store, which boasted the best free view in town, is closed for years of renovation.)

seine_colette.jpgThe Café Marly, in the Louvre, overlooking I. M. Pei's pyramid, is a hip Sunday brunch spot for très cool Parisians to watch each other. Speaking of hip: a few more steps from the river, the trendiest shop in town—Colette—still holds that title after almost a decade. The basement "water bar" whets the appetite for (take your pick): an inexpensive plastic toy; a fabulous fashion statement; a magazine; a thousand-euro jewel. Anything goes in this cool concept store, as long as the product passes the groovy design test and isn't available elsewhere. I check into Colette yearly to make sure I'm still sufficiently "fashion," as the Parisians say. Another spot for fashionistas to set their trend-seine_kong.jpgo-meters is the glassed-in Phillippe Starck-designed Kong restaurant on top of the Kenzo building. Shops, a bar, a restaurant, and a fabulous view are all in one trendsplendant spot!

At river level, L'Ecluse wine bar is good for a quencher and a rest. (The kids will enjoy a fruit shake next door at Le Paradis du Fruit.) La Table de Michel, Les Bouquinistes or Rôtisserie du Beaujolais are three good choices for fine riverside meals. Lapérouse gets my vote for most-romantic-restaurant-in-Paris; Proust mentions it in Swann's Way, why not write it into your Paris romance, too? A street or so away from the river are two more good eateries: Le Reminet and Le petit Pontoise.

seine_laperouse.jpgTurn your back on the Seine to supply your daily needs. A few blocks inland on rue de Buci (at rue de Seine) is the bustling, must-see Tuesday to Saturday street market: a Champion supermarket is tucked in among the bakeries, pastry shops, carry-out delis and produce stands in one of Paris's most vivid food fairs. Or, from Quai de la Tournelle and rue des Petits Ponts head towards Place Maubert where small, old- fashioned shops cater to every neighborhood desire. In August 2005, savvy Californians were introduced to Eric Kayser's bread at his Breadbar, in West Hollywood. You can one-up them by shopping at the source: his cheese bread (among numerous choices) makes the inevitable long lines at Maison Kayser worth the wait.

While shopping, why not pick up some champagne to toast the river from your window? Here's to your own breathtaking views and your own romantic dreams!

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ADDRESSES

Institut de France 23, quai de Conti

Musée des Arts Décoratifs 107, rue de Rivoli

Musée de la Monnaie 11, quai de Conti

Ecole des Beaux-Arts 14, rue Bonaparte (main entrance)

Aux Soldats d'Antan 67, quai de Tournelle

(Expositions at) L'Hotel De Ville 29, rue de Rivoli

La Tour D'Argent 15-17, quai de la Tournelle

Ziryab Arab Institute, 1, rue des Fossés-St-Bernard

Le Moucharabieh Arab Institute, 1, rue des Fossés-St-Bernard

Café Marly Cour Napoléon, 93, rue de Rivoli

Colette 213, rue Saint-Honoré

Kong 1, rue du Pont Neuf

L'Ecluse 15, quai des Grands-Augustins

Le Paradis du Fruit 29, Quai des Grands-Augustins

La Table de Michel 13, quai de la Tournelle

Les Bouquinistes 53, quai des Grands-Augustins

La Rôtisserie du Beaujolais 19, quai de la Tournelle

Lapérouse 51 Quai des Grands-Augustins

La Reminet 3, rue des Grands-Degrés

Le Petit Pontoise 9, rue de Pontoise

Maison Kayser 8, rue Monge