The Marais

The Marais—the marsh—was the height of fashion in the 17th century. The salons of important intellectuals thrived here in magnificent private hotels built for them by the leading architects of the day. But the court packed off to Versailles and the area fell from fashion. Luckily, the entire quartier was considered not worth bothering about for a couple of hundred years. In the mid-sixties, the government declared it Paris's first historic preservation district when it was rediscovered in its almost pre-Revolutionary state. Mansions were converted to museums. Galleries and boutiques followed. Bars, restaurants and hip tea salons joined the rush. Real estate prices soared. Today, the Marais is the largest historic district in all France—but it is also up-to-the-minute fascinating. If there is a livelier neighborhood in Paris, I've yet to visit it. Where better to hang your beret and meander?

The heart of the "très cool" Marais remains the old Jewish quarter, which was established in the 13th century and has survived continuously since then despite the Vichy government's collaboration during WW II. Hector Guimard, famed for his curvy green metro entrances, built his only Synagogue here in 1913, on rue Pavée, a street first paved in the 14th century. Also make time for a visit to contemplate the new (2005) Mémorial de la Shoah, where 76,000 names of French victims of the Holocaust have been carved into stone slabs—a severe reminder. Kosher restaurants, bakeries and delis scent the air of rue des Rosiers, the main thoroughfare, and make it impossible to move on without succumbing to a snack. Falafel from either Chez Marianne or L'As du Fallafal, or cheesecake from Finkelsztajn are favorites among many tasty possibilities. Cross the rue St-Antoine and follow your nose to Izrael, purveyor of delicacies from around the world on rue Francois-Miron.

The Marais is Paris's challenge to serious shoppers. It's the only neighborhood with many stores open on Sundays. This is a much-needed bonus, for no one could browse all the treasures arrayed here in just six days a week! The Village St-Paul, a jumble of antiquaires in a country-like courtyard is brimming with "junque" that is hard to pass up. Internationally-known fashion names abound: if you can't get enough of upscale Barbara Bui in her one New York store, check out this Paris-designer's four shops in her hometown. For the latest and trendiest in jeans, try Marithé + Francois Girbaud; or for last year's markdowns, there's a favorite of mine, Stock Griffes. Toys and kid's stores are everywhere. Petit Pan, opened in December 2005, is my choice among them for its original, colorful, Paris-designed and China-made pint-size clothing. Boutique Paris-Musées has great gift ideas assembled from small museums all around Paris. Everywhere, there are gay men's fashions to die for and unexpected shops such as the huge CSAO, two inviting levels chock-a-block with African-made dolls, cloth, toys, plates, rugs, etc., that you quickly realize you can't do without. For handsome housewares, don't miss Sentou or the Japanese shop, Muji. The former features sleek modern design, the latter, simple, handsome goods at excellent prices. The eight Muji shops in Paris stock everything: ocarinas, penguin puzzles, folding bicycles, socks, plates, chopsticks. (Why not one-up New Yorkers and bring something from Paris before Muji's MOMA store opens its doors?)

On every narrow street there are shops to catch the eye and lighten the purse. Nadine Delépine on rue de la Princesse, is one of many jewelry stores, but this one makes its pretty baubles in the back and will customize colors to suit. Her reasonably priced earrings, necklaces, and bracelets will delight any princess on your list. Speaking of princesses, an environmental garden memorial to Princess Diana is hidden in a schoolyard behind locked doors. But on Saturdays, Sundays and holidays the doors are open for you to pay your respects.

The largest concentration of individual museums is also in the Marais. The extensive and free museum of the history of Paris, the Musée Carnavalet, is a favorite. On yearly visits to pay homage to Proust's cork-lined bedroom and to the memory of Madame de Sévigné—one of the world's greatest letter writers, whose home this was—I always find something I missed the year before.

The Cognacq-Jay Museum is a little-visited gem. The collected treasures of the founders of the Samaritaine department store are housed in a 16th-century mansion. Theirs is a delicate collection of 18th-century art and furnishings, which is soothing rather than fussy. The pastels by LaTour are beauties.

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