|
I cannot resist the ever-expanding Maison de Famille, just off the square, full of fancy and, I think, completely necessary stuff for my home. Across the street, with a different perspective, is a branch of Muji, offering unbranded straightforward quality goods. Continue down rue St-Sulpice and the temptations persist: old prints, kids' gear, fashions, antiques.
 Two local bookstores are among the best in the city. Near the Théatre de l'Odéon where Marriage of Figaro premiered in 1784, is Le Moniteur. Recently enlarged, with a good selection on Paris, this is browsing heaven for designers and architects. The Village Voice, a well-stocked English-language shop is the choice of local literary types. A recent third addition to the book scene is the San Francisco Book Co., containing around 13,000 titles, all in English, and run by an expat Francophile from the city by the Golden Gate.
Nearby is a favorite patisserie, Gerard Mulot—where Monsieur and Madame Mulot fuss over cakes (that should cost money just to see) and the world's best lemon tarts. But don't miss Pierre Hermé. Lines outside this diminutive jewel box of a shop point to where the rich and famous buy their treats from the man who recently published France's chocolate bible, Larousse du Chocolat. Pierre's pastries look like popsicles, flowers, gifts; they taste like heaven. The completely renovated enclosed market, Marché St-Germain, is around the corner. If you can extract your kids from the Gap, you can shop the food hall where the wines, cheeses and produce will abundantly satisfy daily needs. The Piscine Municipal (city swimming pool) downstairs offers both kids and adults a good way to burn calories. 
Speaking of which, choosing a restaurant from the neighborhood cornucopia is no easy task. Polidor has been serving traditional food for over one hundred fifty years. La Bastide de l'Odéon has a well-priced lunchtime menu featuring its delicious Provençal cooking (marinated sardines are a good choice). Twenty-four seats and not much larger than a postage stamp, Le Timbre offers a delicious new twist on cuisine traditionelle. A long-time favorite of mine, Le Machon d'Henri, serves homey food in close friendly quarters. Au Bon Saint Pourçain could serve as a Parisian movie set but serves instead genuine good food. Le Boullion Racine offers Belgian-French fare late into the night in a beautifully renovated old-time soup kitchen. Napoleon decreed that Le Jardin du Luxembourg should be dedicated to children. And so it is, to children of all ages. An enchanted garden in an enchanting neighborhood; what a magical place to call home!
ADDRESSES Palais du Luxembourg 15, rue de Vaugirard: open for guided visits or during the Journées du Patrimoine each September (newspapers list schedules).
Musée National du Luxembourg 19, rue de Vaugirard
La Maison de Poupée 40, rue de Vaugirard
Kiwi Corner 25, rue Servandoni
Musée Zadkine 100 bis, rue d'Assas
Musée d'Histoire de la Médicine 12, rue de l'Ecole-de-Médecine
Agnès B 6, rue du Vieux Colombier
La Maison de la Chine 76, rue Bonaparte
Maison de Famille 29, rue St. Sulpice
Muji 30 (and 27), rue St. Sulpice
Le Moniteur 7, Place de l'Odéon
The Village Voice 6, rue Princesse
San Francisco Book Co. 17, rue Monsieur le Prince
Gerard Mulot 76, rue de Seine
Pierre Hermé 72, rue de Bonaparte
Marché St-Germain rue Mabillon at rue Lobineau
Polidor 41, rue Monsieur-le-Prince
La Bastide de l'Odéon 7, rue Corneille
Le Timbre 3, rue Saint Beuve
Le Machon d'Henri 8, rue Guisarde
Au Bon Saint Pourçain 10 bis, rue Servandoni
Le Boullion Racine 3, rue Racine
|
