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Ile Saint Louis Only 6,000 Louisiens live in this perfect little world apart; the most romantic quartier in Paris. There are few tourist must-sees, yet tourists, both foreign and Parisian, flock here. They come to see daily life in the old capital; a village preserved and richly enhanced by splendid 17th-century aristocratic dwellings. And everywhere, those views! Did river-gazing influence Marie Curie, Camille Claudel, Voltaire, Daumier? Their well-known names are among the many chiseled into plaques labeling the fine mansions along the quays. It is fitting on this romantic island to pay tribute to that most romantic composer, Fréderic Chopin. In the Bibliothèque Polonaise (Polish Library), you can join a tour offered in French and Polish—with a soupçon of English—on Thursday afternoons and Saturday mornings. You'll visit the Chopin Room with its memorabilia and only known photographic likeness of the frail young artist.  Interesting gift shops and many smart restaurants line the island's few streets. The friendly casual Brasserie de l'Ile St-Louis, one of the first places I ate in Paris, remains a favorite. Good, hearty Alsatian foods served all day long are three reasons to try it. Mon Vieil Ami also serves Alsatian food, but this time, it's elegant and modernized. Reservations are essential. Les Fous de l'Isle, opened in June 2005, offers traditional cooking by a young friendly chef. It's good value for money and—something rare in Paris—the plates are loaded with fresh veggies. L'Escale is a busy old-time hangout—rarely frequented by tourists—where you'll be welcomed by locals for a café and a chat in the morning, or a well-prepared plat du jour at lunch. Islanders proudly call Isami the best Japanese restaurant in Paris. I could never get a table so, evidently, many other Parisians share that opinion. La Charlotte de l'Isle has been serving teas and hot chocolates accompanied by homemade cakes and tarts for over thirty years. Be thankful you can only indulge from Thursday through Sunday!
For daily maintenance—if you require more than the remarkable fougasse (stuffed flat bread) and baguettes from Boulangerie Martin—there is a grocery, Le Prestige de l'Alimentation, on the main street. You can also buy delicious prepared take-away food and pastries (try the mille feuille) from Gourmet Calixte; wine from nearby Nicolas (part of a well-stocked chain with good prices); and cheese from La Ferme Saint Aubin, one of Paris's premiere cheese shops, where the thoughtful proprietor will help you make a good selection. A rarefied carryout treat is the "Sandwich Deluxe" combo consisting of foie gras on good bread accompanied by the proper cold sweet wine from La Boutique de la Petite Scierie. What more does one need? The answer of course, is ice cream, which, according to a 2005 survey, is France's favorite dessert. Bertillon scoops up, without doubt, the best ice cream and sorbet in Paris. In 2004, a tearoom was added and the ice creamery next door underwent a fussy facelift. But fortunately, the ice cream has not changed. So, find the long lines, take your place, and take a sweet taste of Island Life for yourself.
ADDRESSES Ile Saint Louis Bibliothèque Polonaise Musée Adam Mickiewicz, 6, quai d'Orléans
Brasserie de l'Ile St-Louis 55, quai de Bourbon
Mon Vieil Ami 69, rue St-Louis-en-I'lle
Les Fous de l'Isle 33, rue des Deux-Ponts
L'Escale 1, rue des Deux-Ponts
Isami 4, quai d'Orléans
La Charlotte de l'Isle 24, rue Saint-Louis en I'lle
Boulangerie Martin 40, rue St-Louis-en-I'lle
Le Prestige de l'Alimentation 67, rue St-Louis-en-I'lle
Gourmet Calixte 66, rue St-Louis-en-I'lle
Nicolas 69, rue St-Louis-en-I'lle
La Ferme Saint Aubin 76, rue St-Louis-en I'lle
La Boutique de la Petite Scierie 60, rue St-Louis-en I'lle
Bertillon 29-31, rue St-Louis-en-I'lle
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