Cross the river, over the exuberantly gilded Pont Alexandre III, for a nautical adventure in the Musée de la Marine (my favorite among the handful of museums in the Palace de Chaillot). Here, among gigantic figureheads, elegant scale-model vessels, and vast halls of instruments, paintings and maritime treasures, is the actual—appropriately ornate—barge built for Napoleon in 1810. This is the oldest and most important navel museum in the world and a paradise for little sailors and big model-makers alike.

While you're on the right bank, don't miss the gigantic, domed Petit Palais, re-opened in December 2005—after four years of work—as Le Musée des Beaux Arts. It is beautiful, vast, and free! The huge collection stretches from antiquity through the 19th century. Across the street is its much, much bigger glass-domed sister (both were built for the 1903 Universal Exposition), Le Grand Palais, scheduled to re-open in 2006. Until then, the most important temporary exhibits in Paris continue to be offered in one of its football-field sized wings. Two more important near-by museums are scheduled for 2006/2007 openings—architecture buffs take note! But that's another story…

If you feel homesick, head over to the American University where you can arrange to sit in on a class. Nearby, you can load up on Oreos, Peanut Butter, and Newman's Own Dressings at The Real McCoy which has recently given birth to The McCoy Café where you can satisfy your hunger for hot dogs, wraps, BLTs, and burgers before you attend a free Sunday concert in the American Church. Or, why not feed your mind in the vast stacks of English-language volumes in the American Library?

But you won't be homesick. You'll never want to leave. Look up, in the evening, at Mr. Eiffel's sparkling legacy. It's hard to keep the stars out of your eyes!

ADDRESSES

Rue Cler market begins at avenue de la Motte-Piquet:
La Maison de Jambon (Davoli), A La Mère de la Famille (Lutin Gourmand), and Dorius are at 34, 47, and 26

Marie-Anne Cantin 12, rue du Champ-de-Mars

Patisserie Millet 103, rue St-Dominique

Patisserie Secco 20, rue Jean-Nicot

Bellota-Bellota 18, rue Jean Nicot

Caviar Petrossian 18, boulevard La Tour-Maubourg

L'Atelier de Joel Robuchon 5, rue de Montalembert

Le Jules-Verne reservations: 01.45.55.61.44

L'Arpège 84, rue Varenne

Le Divellec 107, rue de l'Université

Le Violon D'Ingres 135, rue St-Dominque

Le Café Constant 139, rue St-Dominque

Les Ormes 22, rue Surcouf

Au Bon Accueil 14, rue Monttessuy

Goa 19, rue Augereau

La Fontaine de Mars 129, rue St-Dominique

Le P'tit Troquet 28, rue Exposition

L'Ami Jean 27, rue Malar ??/Chez ou no Chez???

Les Egouts de Paris in front of 93, quai d'Orsay

Poème 155, rue de Grenelle

Musée Rodin 77, rue de Varenne

Jules Lavirotte building at 29, avenue Rapp

Musée de la Marine place du Trocadéro

Musée des Beaux-Arts (Le Petit Palais) avenue Winston Churchill

Le Grand Palais avenue Winston Chrchill

Museé du Quai Branly — OPENS JUNE 20, 2006

Cité de l'Architecture et du Patrimoine Palais de Chaillot — COMING SOON

American University 31, avenue Bosquet

The Real McCoy 194, rue de Grenelle

The McCoy Cafe 49, Avenue Bosquet

American Church 65, quai d'Orsay

American Library 10, rue du Général-Camou.